![]() Went to show in the next town over on july 3 temp in am 70-80 no problems ran 55-60mph ran like a champ, come home after show temp 88-90 no problems, but sunday did same thing shut off waited them started up. after pump was on car ran fine for about a week then did the same thing ok so i replace points plugs dis cap rotor added a clear fuel filter to see what was going on if happen agin. it was about 90+ out and i had just filled the tank, drove the car home replaces the pump anyway because didnt know how old pump was, ( this is a 1965 chrysler 300 with a 383 4bbl carb). I let the car sit and got a ride home to get my jeep and some tools by the time i got back it started ok vapor lock. I also have the same problem, driving along just shut off as running out of fuel ,checked and no fuel in carb thought to myself self fuel pump bad. has it been getting really hot up there ? ![]() I'm kind of surprised you're having this sort of issue, way up in Maine. if there's that much heat near the fuel line, I would be looking for cooler routing, even if it deviated from stock. ![]() just need to make sure you're not in danger of melting any foam / soft insulation. This question has been getting kicked-around a lot at the Model-A dept of Fordbarn, and some guys are having good results from using foam pipe insulation around the fuel line to keep things cool. If this shield is missing, the MoPar can have all sorts of hot-weather issues. There is a long 3/16" rod with a nut at the top that mounts to the fuel-pump body, and at the top end of the rod, is secured a sheet-metal heat-shield, to deflect some of the heat from the exhaust manifold away from the fuel pump. Not sure how your Pontiac is set-up with respect to the location of the fuel-pump to the exhaust manifold / exhaust system, but my flathead MoPars have the fuel pump mounted low the side of the block, under the front of the exhuats manifold. Make sure the bowl vent on your carb is not blocked, and if equipped with an "anti-percolation valve", make sure that is operating correctly too. Surely it is a gas reformulation problem – it has fresh gas – so some kind of insulation is probably the best solution since it only happens after I park the car and leave it for several minutes.Ĭlassic "heat-soak" problem hot vehicle gets parked, fuel in the carb / pump / lines vaporizes, car is hard to start until it cools. Remember when we used to put wooden clothes pins on the fuel line? The clothes pins act like a heat sync, drawing heat away from the fuel line and my wife says the wooden clothes pins are still available at the dollar store.Thanks everyone.Use non ethanol gas if you can find it.Cool the engine with a cooler thermostat, bigger fan, or bigger radiator.You may end up also adding a regulator because you don’t want the pump to overrun your mechanical pump. Just before startup, you run the electric pump for a few seconds, then turn it off. Hopefully thicker gaskets will be available for your engine. A couple of 1/32 thick gaskets isn’t going to do much. Instead of a spacer add extra mounting gaskets.And you will probably need to put longer studs in the manifold to accommodate the extra height. These are hard to find so you will probably have to make one. Put a spacer under the carburetor mount. ![]() Put heat wrap around the fuel line in the engine compartment.There are also return regulators available. There are some fuel filters out there that include a return port. This extra line will help cool the fuel, allowing the fuel pump to pump gas instead of vapor. One of the best ways, but a lot of work, is to run a 3rd line from the fuel pump back to the gas tank.
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